The Quiet Revolution of Burro: Why This Covent Garden Newcomer Deserves Your Attention
There’s something almost rebellious about opening a restaurant like Burro in Covent Garden. In a neighborhood overrun by tourist traps and chain eateries, Conor Gadd’s latest venture feels like a defiant statement. Personally, I think it’s a masterclass in how to stand out without shouting. While the area is drowning in noise—both literal and metaphorical—Burro is a sanctuary of understated elegance. What makes this particularly fascinating is how Gadd manages to transplant the soul of his beloved Trullo into a space that could easily have become just another flashy hotspot.
The Trullo Legacy: Why It Matters
Let’s start with the elephant in the room: Trullo. For over a decade, it’s been my go-to recommendation for anyone seeking a genuinely grown-up dining experience. What many people don’t realize is that Trullo’s success isn’t just about the food—it’s about consistency, authenticity, and a refusal to chase trends. In an industry obsessed with novelty, Trullo has remained a steadfast anchor. So, when Gadd announced Burro, I was both excited and skeptical. Could he replicate that magic in a location so different?
Burro’s Menu: A Study in Balance
One thing that immediately stands out is how Burro’s menu strikes a delicate balance between familiarity and innovation. Yes, there are echoes of Trullo—the Venetian chicken liver paté, for instance, is a nod to Gadd’s roots. But it’s the new additions that truly shine. Take the fried artichoke with bottarga: it’s a dish that feels both timeless and fresh. From my perspective, this is where Gadd’s genius lies—he’s not afraid to experiment, but he never loses sight of what makes Italian cuisine so enduring.
What this really suggests is that Burro isn’t just a carbon copy of Trullo. It’s an evolution. The fettuccine with duck and porcini ragu, for example, is a bold reinterpretation of Trullo’s iconic beef shin ragu. It’s rich, decadent, and utterly unforgettable. If you take a step back and think about it, this dish encapsulates everything Burro is trying to achieve: honoring tradition while pushing boundaries.
The Space: A Haven in the Chaos
Now, let’s talk about the restaurant itself. Burro is big—unapologetically so. But what’s remarkable is how it manages to feel intimate. The design is a rhapsody of neutrals, with just enough bursts of color to keep things interesting. Real tablecloths? In 2026? It’s a detail that I find especially interesting, as it speaks to Gadd’s commitment to old-school hospitality. In a world where minimalism often borders on austerity, Burro feels like a warm embrace.
The Broader Question: Does London Need Another Italian Restaurant?
Here’s where things get tricky. London is already saturated with Italian eateries, from Locatelli to Osteria Vibrato. Even Jamie’s Italian has risen from the ashes. So, does Burro have a place in this crowded landscape? In my opinion, absolutely. What sets it apart isn’t just the food—it’s the ethos. Gadd isn’t trying to reinvent Italian cuisine; he’s trying to elevate it. And in a city where authenticity is often sacrificed for spectacle, that’s a breath of fresh air.
The Tiramisu Debate: Innovation or Blasphemy?
Let’s address the tiramisu doughnut. Is it still tiramisu? Probably not. Would a purist cry? Almost certainly. But here’s the thing: Burro isn’t for purists. It’s for people who appreciate creativity, even when it challenges convention. Personally, I think this dish is a perfect metaphor for the restaurant itself—it’s unexpected, a little daring, and utterly delightful.
Final Thoughts: Why Burro Matters
If you’re looking for a restaurant that’s loud, trendy, or Instagram-friendly, Burro isn’t for you. But if you crave substance over style, authenticity over gimmickry, then this is your place. What many people don’t realize is that in an era of fast-casual dining and viral food trends, places like Burro are becoming increasingly rare. It’s a reminder that great food doesn’t need to be flashy—it just needs to be honest.
In my opinion, Burro isn’t just a restaurant; it’s a statement. It’s a quiet revolution in a noisy world. And for that, it deserves every ounce of attention it gets.
Details:
Burro, 2 Floral Court, Floral Street, London WC2, 020-4580 1495. Open all week, lunch 12.30-3pm, dinner 5.30-10.30pm (9.30pm Sun). About £70 a head for three courses, plus drinks and service.
